Nematode control

nematodes are tiny microscopic worms that live in the soil and on the insides of plant roots. Nematode root knot disease can be a serious problem in home garden. Here's how to control it-

Nonchemical controls:

  1. Move the garden every two or three years.
  2. Make sure purchased transplants do not show tiny root swellings or knots on the roots.
  3. Place mulch around the base of plants to keep the soil from drying out, and make sure the soil stays moist during dry weather.
  4. Destroy the roots by pulling up and destroying after harvest
  5. Use resistant varieties where possible.

Chemical controls: Several chemicals (nemati-cides) can be used to kill nematodes in the soil:

Figure 8-LO


D-D or Tetone II

Fumazone 86% liquid EC or Nemagon 86% liquid EC


Any vegetable crop

Beans, broccoli, cantaloupes, cabbage, carrots, okra, squash, tomatoes, melons

(Do no use granular formulation of Fumazone or Nemagon for snap beans, eggplant, peppers, onions, and sweet potatoes.)




Cygon-dimethoate Diazinon

Use and Comments

Chlorinated hydrocarbon that kilts by contact and stomach action; effective for control of ants and earwigs; do not use on any vegetables.

Kills aphids, spider mites and serpentine leaf miner.

Organic phosphate recommended primarily for use in the soil to control cutworms, grubs, wireworms and other ground pests; toxic to fish and honey bees; has a brief residual action.

Dipel-Tburicide (Bacillus thuringiensis) Bacterial organism that paralyzes the digestive system of such leaf-chewing worms as caterpillars, cabbage loopers and tomato hornworms without having any toxic effect on bees, pets or humans.

DOOM (Milky Disease Spoor Powder)

Dormant oil

Dylox (Trichlorfort) Kelthane (Dicofol)

Lindane Malathion

Methoxychor (Mariate) Mi rex

Nicotine sulfate


Rotenone ftyania Sabadilla Sevin (Carbaryl) Systemic insecticides Thiodan endosulfan

Ordorless powder containing the living spores of the organism which produces the milky disease of the grubs of the Japanese beetle—effective for control of the Japanese beetle.

Highly refined petroleum oil mixed with water; some formulas contain fish or vegetable oils; effectively smothers scale and other sucking insects.

Contact and stomach Insecticides useful for controlling cutworms.

Effective miticide that kills red spider and clover mites; for control of mites on ornamentals, house plants, fruits and vegetables.

Chlorinated hydrocarbon with action similar to DOT—effective on ants; do not use on any vegetables.

Contact phosphate compound that is useful on all sucking insects such as aphids; used extensively in home gardens.

Contact and stomach insecticide that effectively controls a wide range of chewing insects; has a residual action—not recommended by many gardeners.

Kills ants; do not make more than one application every 2 months or three applications in 12 months.

Organic insecticide made from the waste products of tobacco; especially useful on aphids; very poisonous.

Organic insecticide made from the dried, powdered flowers of certain plants of the chyrsanthe-mum genus; effective against aphids, leafhoppers, thrips, leaf miners.

Insecticide derived from the roots and sometimes stems of certain New World tropica! shrubs and vines of the genera Derris and Lonchocarpus; effective against beetles, caterpillars, leaf miners, thrips, aphids.

Insecticide derived from the ground stems of a tropical South American shrub, Patrisia Pryrifera; used effectively against the corn borer.

Contact insecticide made from the seeds of a lilylike Mexican plant; sold as a wettable powder; useful for squash bugs, stink bugs and harlequin bugs.

Contact phosphate that is useful to control over 170 chewing insects; widely used by home gardeners.

A systemic insecticide is absorbed by the plant's roots and circulated through the vascular system, killing chewing and sucking insects as they feed; not used on vegetables.

Used for the control of a wide range of insects.

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Beekeeping for Beginners

Beekeeping for Beginners

The information in this book is useful to anyone wanting to start beekeeping as a hobby or a business. It was written for beginners. Those who have never looked into beekeeping, may not understand the meaning of the terminology used by people in the industry. We have tried to overcome the problem by giving explanations. We want you to be able to use this book as a guide in to beekeeping.

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  • marina
    How to control sucking insects?
    9 years ago

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