Ketchup of course

A book on tomatoes would not be complete without ketchup, so here is a recipe for classic tomato ketchup, in trademark red, with a green tomato variation, which is great for using up lots of unripe tomatoes.

Makes about 4T2lb (2kg) Prep time: 40 minutes Cooking time: 2 hours

41/2lb (2kg) ripe plum tomatoes, peeled and coarsely chopped 1lb (500g) Granny Smith or other cooking apples, peeled, cored, and chopped 3 onions, chopped 3/4 cup granulated sugar 1/3 cup dark brown sugar 2 cups cider vinegar 1 tbsp salt 1/2 tsp chili powder 1/2 tsp ground cinnamon 1/2 tsp freshly ground black pepper 8 whole allspice berries 7 whole cloves

Red tomato ketchup (pictured)

Combine all the ingredients in a large stainless steel pan. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat slightly. Simmer, uncovered, for 2 hours, stirring from time to time. Remove from the heat and allow to cool slightly. Using a hand-held blender, purée the mixture until velvety smooth. If the sauce is still watery, simmer for another 20-30 minutes, until thick and a rich reddish brown, stirring constantly. Pass the ketchup through a sieve, and ladle into hot sterilized jars or bottles. Seal tightly with nonreactive lids straight away, label, and store in a cool, dark place. It keeps for up to 9 months.

Green tomato ketchup

Use either unripe tomatoes or green varieties such as 'Green Zebra' (p26) for this variation, and perhaps even a few tomatillos (papery husks removed). You will end up with about 2l/4lb (1kg) ketchup. Put 3lb (1.5kg) cored and quartered unripe or green tomatoes, 1lb (500g) Granny Smith or other cooking apples, peeled, cored, and cut into small dice, and 1 large chopped onion in a large stainless steel pan. Add 1 cinnamon stick, 6 allspice berries, 4 cloves, Y2 tsp cayenne pepper, 1 tsp black peppercorns, 1 bay leaf, 1 tbsp salt, and 11/4 cups cider vinegar. Bring to a boil and cook for 20 minutes or until the fruit and vegetables soften. Add 1 cup demerara sugar, dissolve completely, then bring to a gentle simmer. Cook for 1 hour, uncovered, until very soft and thick, stirring from time to time. Blend to a smooth purée, then pass through a sieve back into the pan. Simmer for another 20-30 minutes until the ketchup is thick. Ladle into sterilized jars or bottles, seal, and store as above. It keeps for up to 6 months.

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