Transplanting to the Garden

The best time to transplant young plants, whether grown from seeds or cuttings, is in early spring after the soil has thawed but the plants are still dormant. This is usually 4 to 6 weeks before the average date of the last freezing temperature in the spring. (See the Spring Freeze map, page 32, for average times for your location.)

Use stakes to mark where the plants will go before you set them out. Be sure to allow enough space. Dig holes in prepared beds using a trowel or spading fork. Make the holes large enough so that roots have plenty of room and plant at a depth to accommodate each




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Péoni-cs cw-d Mosiy othtr p&resm ¡aJs Can kc stzJieJ wiJh a -three-legged hoop.



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Apply t>us*môr mulch

Apply t>us*môr mulch

Tupcr dtptt) -fau/asd plant root system. Firm the soil around the roots so there are no empty spaces between roots and soil. Water thoroughly.

Water the perennial garden when soil becomes dry. This will vary with soil type. Watch new beds for signs of wilting. Young, newly planted perennials will need more frequent watering than mature, established plants. Water thoroughly and try not to splash water on the foliage. Use a trowel to check the soil for moisture—soil should be moist 4 to 5 inches deep. It is better to water thoroughly and less frequently than to apply many superficial waterings.

Apply a 2-inch layer of mulch over the bed or border every spring, tapering it off gradually near each plant. You may apply a layer of winter mulch 4 inches deep after the soil is frozen to a depth of 2 inches. This helps prevent winter injury, especially heaving. If you apply mulch too early, rodent problems may develop. Use an open, fluffy material, such as pine boughs, pine needles or excelsior over the entire bed. Remove this layer the follow ing spring after the danger of severe frost has passed. A winter mulch can help unreliably hardy plants survive the winter.

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